I read in many sources that the Maritimes of eastern Canada are “possibly Canada’s best-kept secret.” I have to agree. The three Maritime provinces are New Brunswick, Nova Scotia & Prince Edward Island (PEI). We visited all three but only passed through New Brunswick.
“The Indigenous peoples of the Maritimes include the Mi'kmaq, Maliseet, and Passamaquoddy. They have lived in the region for thousands of years. They have a deep connection to the land and a rich cultural and spiritual heritage. The arrival of French explorers in the early 17th century introduced the French language and a culture that remains today.
The British colonized Nova Scotia when they gained control of the Maritimes in the 18th century. With this influx came customs and traditions that influenced government and education in the region.
The Maritimes experienced a significant wave of Irish immigration in the 19th century. The Irish have become integral to the Maritimes' unique cultural identity with their customs, music, and food.”
“The Canadian Shield… is a geologic shield, a large area of exposed Precambrian igneous and high-grade metamorphic rocks…. Glaciation has left the area with only a thin layer of soil, through which exposures of igneous bedrock.” A lot of this was evident, especially in Nova Scotia. See the boulder above. But, more on this later as we travel deeper into Canada.
At SFO, aboard Air Canada en route to Halifax via Montréal. We were told there were delays due to storms. Look at this lineup of airplanes waiting for takeoff! We were delayed coming into Montréal (YUL). Luckily our flight from YUL to Halifax was also delayed. This was our first of many encounters with delays.
With airplane times wonky, this was lunch…
“Founded in 1749, the ’garrison town’ of Halifax has always been a sociable place to weather a storm. A waterfront lively with rum-runners & privateers, a Titanic connection & the entire East Coast Naval fleet, all make for good story-telling over a cold brew. Our Halifax Seaport home is particularly special with its unique mix of history, culture & vibrancy. From the oldest farmers’ market in North America to Pier 21 Canadian Museum of Immigration to NSCAD art college & more than 135 cruise ships annually.”
It was wet & chilly as we walked along the Halifax harbor front. Their sign & entrance looked inviting as I was thirsting for a nice brew. We walked in & weren’t disappointed. Garrison Brewing Co. since 1997.
Check out the long boat plus oars on the ceiling.
We rented a car in Halifax. This was seen on the way to Peggy’s Cove, Nova Scotia.
Road to Peggy's Cove - This lighthouse is a recurring motif in the Maritimes.
Road to Peggy's Cove. "Nova Scotia is jam packed with geological vistas and has long been recognised by geologists as a showcase of Earth’s history."… "Nova Scotia’s rugged shorelines, glacial deposits and long mining history give the province a compact but diverse mineral record."
Road to Peggy's Cove.
Note the high garage door. Likely there’s snow removal equipment in there.
Road to Peggy's Cove - One of many boats we observed displayed on the land.
On the road to Peggy’s Cove.
"Are you a nature enthusiast seeking your next thrilling adventure? Look no further than the geological wonders of Nova Scotia. With its towering cliffs and ancient fossils, this province proudly displays a diverse and captivating geological landscape that is sure to captivate visitors of all ages.
Nova Scotia is a haven for various rock formations, including igneous, sedimentary, and metamorphic rocks."
Peggy's Cove, Nova Scotia.
Later the fog lifted like a theatre curtain going up.
Peggy's Cove, Nova Scotia - One of three churches in a row along this road.
Heritage Boatyard Co-Op Boat Building Shed, Peggy's Cove, Nova Scotia. The sign says Mahone Bay but it's in Peggy's Cove.
Peggy's Cove, Nova Scotia.
Permanently dry docked fishing boat, Peggy's Cove, Nova Scotia.
I had to take the photo from the middle of the street to leave out the overhead electric cables. Peggy's Cove, Nova Scotia.
"MIND THE—- LIP" Peggy’s Cove, Nova Scotia.
Peggy’s Cove, Nova Scotia.
“Situated a mere 43 kilometers southwest of Halifax, Peggy’s Cove stands as one of Nova Scotia’s most iconic and photographed spots. This charming locale features a lighthouse perched atop a colossal granite outcrop shaped by the relentless forces of the Atlantic Ocean. Visitors can explore the rugged coastline while marveling at the unique rock formations."
Best fish chowder ever & a lobster roll at the Sou'Wester Gift & Restaurant Co., Ltd., Peggy’s Cove, Nova Scotia. It was perched on the same rock outcropping, albeit a bit back, as the lighthouse.
"KEEP CALM, EAT LOBSTER" The Sou'Wester Gift & Restaurant Co., Ltd., Peggy's Cove, Nova Scotia. We met another tourist who was working on three lobster meals/day.
The Sou'Wester Gift & Restaurant Co., Ltd., Peggy's Cove, Nova Scotia. Our waitress suggested that we drive over to the Town of Mahone Bay. She visits there frequently with her mother.
We drove on over to the town of Mahone Bay. The fog had lifted here.
The next day we toured three vineyards in the Annapolis Valley.
Town of Mahone Bay, Nova Scotia. We found a nice coffee spot here.
ORCHARD HOUSE, c. 1775 Heritage Property, Town of Mahone Bay, Nova Scotia. Pearl's Vintage & Famous Town Pie Shop
Much to my chagrin, Sweet Ride Cycling was closed. Town of Mahone Bay, Nova Scotia.
Canada Poste's building is for sale..., Town of Mahone Bay, Nova Scotia. I forgot to go in & buy two international stamps for postcards that I wanted to mail.
Brewing companies on official road signs. I had never seen anything like this before. Outskirts of Mahone Bay, Nova Scotia.
Nova Scotia, road back to Halifax.
Nova Scotia, road back to Halifax.
Halifax Harbor, Nova Scotia. "The Canadian version of the c. Thomas Lee designed Adirondeck chair is the same basic design, is named for Ontario's Muskoka cottage region. Since the 1980s,..." “…they’re a reflection of the province’s environment and culture."
Halifax Harbor, Halifax, Nova Scotia.
Halifax Harbor, Halifax, Nova Scotia.
We set out on a Great Escapes Vineyard Tour of Annapolis Valley with our driver/guide, JD. Crossing Halifax Harbor "The A. Murray MacKay Bridge, known locally as 'the new bridge', is a suspension bridge linking the Halifax Peninsula with Dartmouth, Nova Scotia…
…and opened on July 10, 1970. It is notable as having been the first bridge built in North America using an orthotropic steel deck..." “…allowing longer spans and more efficient bridge designs.” MacKay Bridge, Halifax, Nova Scotia.
Rocks of Nova Scotia on the drive to Annapolis Valley winery tour with JD.
"Something Inspiring Awaits"
Windsor, NS “claims to being the birthplace of hockey... The town of Windsor is also home to the oldest agricultural fair in North America…1765.”
Drive to Annapolis Valley winery tour with JD.
"Land of Orchards & Tides" “…the province's agricultural heartland…” “…is also celebrated for its wineries.”
At a viewpoint along our drive to the Annapolis Valley tour, a view of Mina Basin & Boot Island seen from West Brooklyn, Nova Scotia. The Bay of Fundy is way over to the left & not seen in this photo.
At the viewpoint I turned around & saw these mailboxes for a West Brooklyn neighborhood. Canada Postes is eliminating home delivery by placing these neighborhood mail boxes. Get to meet your neighbors, like it or not!
Benjamin Bridges Winery. Annapolis Valley vineyard tour with JD.
Tidal Bay Appellation — Nova Scotia’s Signature White Wine
“Officially launched in June 2012, Tidal Bay was created by the Winery Association of Nova Scotia to define and protect the province’s signature white wine style Wine Growers Nova Scotia. It is unique in North America because it applies to the entire province rather than a specific geographic region…The name draws inspiration from Nova Scotia’s coastal influence and the province’s notable tidal changes. Nova Scotia developed a signature wine that revealed these characteristics, and so began Tidal Bay. A wine with Nova Scotian character, Tidal Bay brilliantly reflects the terroir, coastal breezes, and cooler climate of its birthplace."
Benjamin Bridges Winery, Wolfville, Nova Scotia “…nestled in the heart of Nova Scotia’s Gaspereau Valley.”
“Tidal Bay is Nova Scotia’s first and only wine appellation, a legally protected designation for crisp, aromatic white wines that reflect the province’s cool maritime terroir.”
Recently installed fermentation “eggs” at Benjamin Bridges Winery, Wolfville, Nova Scotia.
JD’s van at Benjamin Bridges Winery, Wolfville, Nova Scotia.
My healing leg permitted me to be in the shotgun seat & get some reasonably good photos through his clean windshield.
Domaine de Grand Pré, Nova Scotia’s version of Tidal Basin. This was the best of the three.
“Domaine de Grand Pré is Atlantic Canada’s oldest farm winery,… since 1994.”
“Grand-Pré is a rural community in Kings County, Nova Scotia” since 1680. “Landscape of Grand-Pré was named a World Heritage Site by UNESCO.”
Luckett Vineyards, Annapolis Valley, Nova Scotia since 2000. "...overlooks the magnificent Gaspereau Valley, where Bay of Fundy breezes, ocean tides, and brilliant sunshine come together to create the perfect terroir for cool-climate grape growing."
Luckett Vineyards, Annapolis Valley, Nova Scotia.
Looking due north, the Bay of Fundy. The phone box is set-up to call anywhere in N. American gratis.
And I called Elliot in Brooklyn.
"Dad & the Lad Farm Stand"
Earlier I had seen "The Missus & Me Groceries."
We saw many little houses like this. I thought they might be prefabs. Near Lower Wolfville, Nova Scotia.
JD told me what each flag was but I didn't take notes. This was not the first time we noticed a U.N. flag flying in Nova Scotia.
Approaching the MacKay Bridge into Halifax in heavy traffic. But, it was moving along.
Return to Halifax driving under the MacKay Bridge. I liked the gold & green combo of colors.
Victoria Garden, Halifax, Nova Scotia c. 1885. Across street from our hotel, The Lord Nelson.
Victoria Garden, Halifax, Nova Scotia c. 1885. Across street from our hotel, The Lord Nelson.
Victoria Garden, Halifax, Nova Scotia c. 1885. Across street from our hotel, The Lord Nelson.
Victoria Garden, Halifax, Nova Scotia c. 1885. Building held together by iron rods. Good coffee.
Victoria Garden, Halifax, Nova Scotia c. 1885. Across street from our hotel, The Lord Nelson.
Victoria Garden, Halifax, Nova Scotia c. 1885. Across street from our hotel, The Lord Nelson.
Victoria Garden, Halifax, Nova Scotia c. 1885. Across street from our hotel, The Lord Nelson.
MacKay Bridge over Halifax Harbor, Nova Scotia. We saw lots of these huge electrical power towers throughout our stay in Canada. They were carrying hydro-electic generated power. Taxi ride on the way to Prince Edward Island (PEI).
A UNESCO World Heritage Site, "The Joggins Fossil Cliffs are located in Nova Scotia, along the shores of Cumberland Basin in the upper Bay of Fundy. This site is a 14.7-km stretch of dramatic coastline and is known for its exceptional fossil record from the Carboniferous period, making it one of the world's most important fossil sites..." Note the wild lupine. This taxi’s windshield was not clean.
Amherst."... the gateway to Nova Scotia...Try rug hooking at the award-winning Deanne Fitzpatrick Rug Hooking Studio." Wild lupine again.
Power from the wind, of which there is plenty here in Nova Scotia.
New Brunswick.
"The Confederation Bridge spans the Abegweit Passage of the Northumberland Strait, linking Borden-Carleton, Prince Edward Island, to Cape Jourimain, New Brunswick...
…Opened on May 31, 1997, it is the world’s longest bridge over ice-covered water and a major engineering achievement in Canada.. The bridge is a two-lane, post-tensioned concrete box girder structure with a total length of 12.9 km, a width of 11 meters, and a speed limit of 80 km/h (50 mph), taking about 12 minutes to cross."
Cape Tarmentine, New Brunswick from mid-span of the Confederation Bridge. Our driver factored in the time we would have to wait at the repaving site. ,"...on the Northumberland Strait at the Abegweit Passage, the shortest crossing between Prince Edward Island and the mainland." Before the bridge "...an ice breaking train ferry..." crossed from here to PEI.
The Strait freezes over in wintertime. We were headed to Charlottetown, PEI.
Confederation Bridge to PEI. Charlottetown is way over to the right.