My being disabled with the healing shattered left leg made the trip interesting in ways that would not have happened under normal traveling circumstances. We had many folks helping us. In our two & a half week sojourn to southern Africa we had many flights. Sometimes there was more than one person to push my wheelchair, assist & get us through customs, immigration, security, boarding & deplaning. But wow, we sure rolled past long lines. On the ground at various sites we also had help. The long time spent talking with these local folks gave us a peek into their worlds & they into ours. The people we met, for the most part, seemed to enjoy their jobs, meeting us & appreciating how far we had traveled to visit their country. Many were passionate about their vocations (especially the guides & trackers in the game preserves) & multilingual; speaking as many as 11 languages. They were family oriented (frequently with 3-4 children) & often quite enterprising.
Being disabled is another world. When one is in a wheelchair, you are more vulnerable & often overlooked with conversations carrying on over your head like you are not there. I did love, in South Africa, listening to conversations in Xhosa. That’s the language with the clicks. For those who remember, think Miriam Makeba’s ca. 1967 “The Click Song” (“Qongqothwane“). I could have listened for hours to them talking. Sometimes I would be parked in a spot that I did not like & the wheelchair person disappeared. So, I moved myself to be around fewer people or have a view of the tarmac. '
Two of our looong flights were on a Boeing airbus. This behemoth held about 500 passengers & crew on two levels. That’s almost the population of our son Nathan’s village of Saoû in France. Nomi said we paid a premium for a shelf for our feet (that sometimes would collapse down if one wasn’t careful). I had to clamber over the person in the aisle to get out. But, I could hide my cane between my seat & the wall. On some flights they made me put in the overhead storage bin. On out flight to San Francisco from Heathrow, there were six of us needing wheelchair assistance. There were othersfrom the floor above & other flights. The attendants at SFO were overwhelmed, delaying our return home by about 45 minutes. Some assistants just disappeared leaving us stranded at baggage claim! When we had arrived at Joburg on an airbus, Menzies was the group dealing with wheelchair assistance. They were smooth & efficient.
The books that I had read; Michener’s “The Covenant” & Bernstein’s “The World That Was Ours” gave me a closer insight into the people. Nomi & I read Kobie Kruger’s “Mahlangeni: Stories of a Game Ranger's Family” (1994) which revealed what it was like to live in a game preserve & the people she encountered. That prepared us for our visits to game preserves & gave us an understanding of the jobs of the people who took care of us.
This blog posting is dedicated the The Africa Adventure Co. When we told them about my broken leg, they got their staff working to make sure we had assistance with wheelchairs, rooms close to the center of the hotel or resort & that our guides were prepared for us. Awesome. CHEERS!
At Heathrow (LHR) Internat'l Airport, Ken pushed me for a long stretch in a wheelchair. We then took a ride & then another wheelchair excursion. He was a lovely family guy.
Mary rode with us. She was from Marin on her way to Cape Town!
There were many men wearing suits & ties around O.R. Tambo Airport in Johannesburg (Joburg), S. Africa. (ZA). The country code SA was already taken by Saudi Arabia.
In her book that I was reading,The World That Was Ours, Hilda Bernstein noted the address of the family home in Joburg. Our tour guide Jacob had heard of Hilda but had never been to the home.
Soweto (South West Township), Joburg, ZA.
The Hector Pieterson Memorial/Museum, Orlando West, Soweto, Joburg, ZA.
“Hector Pieterson was one of the first casualties of the march through Soweto on 16 June 1976, when police were ordered to shoot at a crowd of demonstrating students. (They were against being forced to learn Afrikaans in school) . Sam Nzima's photograph of the mortally wounded Hector Pieterson carried by a horrified youngster and his wailing sister came to symbolise the contribution of the youth to the liberation struggle. “ The whole area around the Hector Pieterson Memorial & Museum has been declared a national heritage site.
That’s Hector’s sister Antoinette speaking to a group of tourists.
The Hector Pieterson Memorial/Museum, Orlando West, Soweto, Joburg, ZA.
Our guide Jacob was friends with Antoinette.
Hector’s name is not Xhosa, but English, to help him better “fit in.”
Vilakazi Street, Orlando West, Soweto, Joburg, ZA.
Vilakazi Street is said to be the only street in the world where two Nobel Laureates have lived, Nelson Mandela & Bishop Desmond Tutu.
Vilakazi Street. Many establishments in Joburg had guards by the door.
Soweto, Joburg, ZA.
Soweto, Joburg, ZA.
Our guide Jacob asked in Xhosa what he was barbecuing; cow intestines.
Soweto, Joburg, ZA.
Read the posters.
Soweto, Joburg, ZA.
Soweto, Joburg, ZA.
O.R. Tambo International Airport, Joburg, ZA.
O.R. Tambo International Airport, Joburg, ZA.
Our flight was to Kasane International Airport, Botswana. The airport was mentioned in the book Naomi & I were reading, A Carrion Death by Michael Stanley.
Our driver taking us to Muchenje Safari Lodge, Chobi River, Kasane, Botswana. As mentioned in A Carrion Death, Ngoma (entrance to Chobi Nat’l Park).
Game boat ride on the Chobi River, Chobi Nat’l Park, with K.B., the same guide we had for all our game drives. Plus we had meals together.
Note the sign about wild dogs. We had a fleeting view of wild dogs here in Chobi but saw many at Notten’s Bush Camp, ZA.
Ngoma entrance to Chobi Nat'l Park & Chobi River Front, Kasane, Botswana.
iPhone photo by Nomi of another Land Cruiser of tourists photographing a pride of lions with their iPhones.
An evening game drive & a stop for G & T’s...beside Land Cruiser in Chobi Nat’l Park, Chobi River, Kasane, Botswana.
Despite people’s concerns about my left leg, I had no trouble getting up & down that ladder (see purple arrow) to our seats in the Land Cruiser. Our sweet fellow travelers had no problem with my leg resting on the space between their seats. Being physical therapists, they understood.
Evelyn & Nomi bonded as that was Nomi’s mom’s name.
Muchenje Safari Lodge, Chobi River, Kasane, Botswana.
Our afternoon/evening game drive was rained out. K.B. proceeded to present a lesson on Botswana’s geography, politics, history, religions, cultures… It was sure nice to sit in class with a beer.
The Botswanans love their country & culture. For more, read the books and/or see the t.v. series The No. 1 Ladies' Detective Agency https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/The_No._1_Ladies%27_Detective_Agency_(TV_series)
Also a wonderful detective story taking place is Botswana is A Carrion Death by Michael Stanley.
Muchenje Safari Lodge, Chobi River, Kasane, Botswana.
The dining was communal at Muchenje Safari Lodge, Chobi River, Kasane, Botswana. The guides joined us for meals. The lodge staff work 20 days on (24/7) & then ten days off. While working, they wear many hats around the lodges. The people appreciated our trip around the globe to visit their Botswana. They love their country; it’s culture & history. Many are multilingual speaking up to 11 languages. Married workers tend to have 3-4 children & keep close family ties. One fellow saved to buy a farm which his wife tends to while he works. When “off” he returns home to farm.
The shirt worn on the left has the colors of Botswana’s flag. Black for the black people, white for the white people & blue for the sky.
Muchenje Safari Lodge, Chobi River, Kasane, Botswana.
A Russian tourist in her brand, spankin’, new safari outfit. Thankfully they were departing.
Muchenje Safari Lodge, Chobi River, Kasane, Botswana.
Alcoholic beverages were included. Booze was available 24/7. The bartender made Nomi a pink G & T.
I thought that those bar stools were fabulous but one wouldn’t fit in my luggage.
Muchenje Safari Lodge, Chobi River, Kasane, Botswana.
One day, K.B. took us on a trip to the Chobi Enclave & the Mabela Primary school.
He made sure that we understood where we were headed. The embedded rocks behind K.B. are to keep elephants out of the signage area.
Mabele is a small village situated 10 kms from Ngoma in the Chobe enclave.
Mabele is a small village situated 10 kms from Ngoma in the Chobe enclave.
Mabele Primary School in Chobe District, Botswana. The kids loved Nomi’s hair & wanted to touch it.
When hunting was outlawed, the local economies took a huge hit. The lodges stepped up by each adopting a school. Muchenje Safari Lodge adopted Mabele Primary School in Chobe District.
Linda & Greg, from Vermont, brought a suitcase full of school supplies to donate to the Mabele Primary School.
She made all her wares, showed Nomi the bushes where she got her grasses & how she prepared them for weaving.
Mabele village, Botswana.
Mabele village, Botswana.
Mabele village, Botswana.
In the long , straight , drive to Kasane Internat’l Airport, we had a continuous conversation.
Bicycles are not for recreation on A33 Botswana.
Collins was wonderful. He was the guide assigned to us along with another couple. He greeted me & said he’d be right back. He gave the other couple to another guide, came back & said “It’s just the three of us.”
Livingstone Island, Victoria Falls, Zambia.
Collins had another fellow setup a chair for me on the precipice of one of the gorges.
Livingstone Island, Victoria Falls, Zambia.
Another case of the “Better part of valor” making sense. I had read & heard about the Devil’s Pool swim off Livingstone Island at the end of the Zambezi River.
Livingstone Island, Victoria Falls, Zambia.
We added it to our itinerary. When there, I took a look & being unsure of my balance, opted out, much to Nomi’s relief.
This & previous photo by Nomi.
Livingstone Island, Victoria Falls, Zambia.
Guests at this upscale hotel (I think the Palm River Hotel) on the Zambezi River.
Victoria Falls Royal Steam Train Dinner.
This is the rail line that Cecil Rhodes envisioned going from Cape Town to Cairo. At his death, it had made it to Mafeking, Botswana.
Victoria Falls Royal Steam Train Dinner.
I couldn't resist. I used my best subtle subway photo technique as inspired by Walker Evans. I had to wait until the younger gal stopped using her iPhone.
But this was not on a subway. It was in ca. 1923, lovingly restored Victoria Falls Steam Train Dining Car.
Alcoholic beverages flowed freely as our host regaled us with the history of the train. The head waiter explained the multi-course meal that we would be having.
Two busloads of 30 something year old Russians had joined us on the train. They were already drinking & were noisy & obnoxious.
They were so demanding of the host that we almost missed our Zambia/Zimbabwe border crossing. The border closed at 9:30.
It seems that Russians have a lot of money, of all sorts, invested in these countries & what they ask for, they get.
Ca. 1905 Victoria Falls Bridge.
Our Victoria Falls Royal Steam Train stopped midway on the bridge (between Zimbabwe & Zambia). Victoria Falls are straight ahead through that gorge.
Victoria Falls Nat'l Park Rainforest; a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
Our guide for a walking tour of the Falls, Precious Maufane.
Precious Maufane got quite a workout pushing me in a wheelchair along the path. I could get out at the many overlooks & walk around but otherwise, the wheelchair was essential.
I loved the uniform of the bellhops at the Victoria Falls Hotel. He had the front of his uniform covered with pins that tourists had given him from their countries.
Our river boat caption on the Ru-ikane Sunset Cruise on the Zambezi River.
The woman was from Texas. That was the 1st of at least four beers she had. But, who was counting? Alcoholic beverages were included.
On the road to the Victoria Falls Airport. Our driver said that they may be carrying as much as 70 kilos, 158 pounds. Trucks might wait for days at these African border crossings but the bikes just zip through. They sell their goods on the other side.
Our driver who was proud to work for The Africa Adventure Co.
He drove us all around the Victoria Falls area & was the person who worked on his farm on his days off.
FASTJET Makuwa Lounge in Victoria Falls Airport as we waited for out flight to Kruger Mpumalanga Internat'l Airport.
Victoria Falls Airport.
At Kruger Mpumalanga International Airport. Our Federal Air flight to Skukuza Airport Kruger Nat'l Park.
She was the co-pilot & helped us on the ground.
In our Federal Air flight 12 seater single prop plane to Skukuza Airport Kruger Nat'l Park.
Our arrival at Skukuza Airport Kruger Nat'l Park. I was happy to see someone with a wheelchair waiting for me. Nice.
A group from another lodge as we observed a pride of lions. Note the bullets on the belt of their guide who must have had a firearm. Ours didn’t.
Notten's Bush Camp, Sabi Sands Nature Preserve, South Africa.
Our driver/guide Tinyko. Sitting, unseat-belted on the bonnet is our tracker/spotter, Wonder.
Notten's Bush Camp, Sabi Sands Nature Preserve, South Africa.
At about 6:30-7:00, midway through the game drive we paused for tea or coffee, infused with Amarula Cream & rusks to dip. Rusks are a super hard biscotti that when dipped in your drink filled you up until a full breakfast at 8:30AM. “Amarula is a cream liqueur from South Africa. It is made with sugar, cream and the fruit of the African marula tree (Sclerocarya birrea) which is also locally called the elephant tree or the marriage tree.” It has an ABV of 17%.
Notten's Bush Camp, Sabi Sands Nature Preserve, South Africa.
Tinyiko took our group for a ground bush walk. I declined & not because Tinyko was armed…,
Notten's Bush Camp, Sabi Sands Nature Preserve, South Africa.
…but because I couldn’t have handled such a long walk.
Notten's Bush Camp, Sabi Sands Nature Preserve, South Africa.
Instead, I hung out around the lodge.
“These miniature cigars are the perfect choice for a short smoke, with a mild and smooth flavor. Guantanamera Mini Smoke Master cigars are sold in packs of 20, and are great for a quick smoke on the go.” From Habana Cuba.
For those worried about me, the last time I puffed on a cigar was when Luca was born 10.5 years ago.
Notten's Bush Camp, Sabi Sands Nature Preserve, South Africa.
I meandered over to the pool where, wearing a different hat, Wonder was tending bar.
Some of the folks used names like Wonder to made it easier for tourists but that was his name as was that of our Victoria Falls guide, Precious. Other people we encountered had biblical names. You’ll see what I’m talking about if you watch The No. 1 Ladies’ Detective Agency.
Notten's Bush Camp, Sabi Sands Nature Preserve, South Africa.
We were so fortunate to be paired in our Land Cruiser with these two wonderful Joburg couples. Lyn & Susie were physical therapists, looked out for me & didn’t mind if I put my foot up on the rest between their seats.
Notten's Bush Camp, Sabi Sands Nature Preserve, South Africa.
Of course “doing some damage” at the lodge shop.
Notten's Bush Camp, Sabi Sands Nature Preserve, South Africa.
Three Land Cruisers from our lodge stopped for sunset barbecued appetizers & drinks.
Notten's Bush Camp, Sabi Sands Nature Preserve, South Africa.
Joseph, who’s worked at Notten’s for 46 years & has trained innumerable guides, gave us a fireside presentation of animal calls.
In my head was Paul Simon singing
"Joseph's face was as black as the night
And the pale yellow moon shone in his eyes.
His path was marked
By the stars in the southern hemisphere
And he walked the length of his days
Under African skies."
Notten's Bush Camp, Sabi Sands Nature Preserve, South Africa.